Albania is unlike any place I have ever been. Matt says it reminds him somewhat of Vietnam.
We’ve just spent four days riding from Tirana to Vlore, via Berat, and have come across the most amazing array of sights and sounds. Some experiences left us feeling elated, some left us confused, and others made us want to hop on the first transport out of the country.
High moments were when we were cycling along the ridge line of the mountains high above Elbasan. With little traffic, a smooth road, and panoramic views, cycling along felt a little like sitting atop the wings of an eagle as it glides gently down the mountain. Or there was the time when we pulled into a small town sitting beside a dusty bumpy road only to find a thriving market scene (think wooden tables lining the street piled high with all kinds of clothing and materials). We bought food from a sausage sizzle and sat in the nearby park to eat it, listening to traditional music from loudspeakers and watching old men in their suits and hats sit and play checkers. And who could forget Berat, with its beautiful Ottoman white stone buildings, and a guesthouse with owners who welcomed us with warm smiles and home cooking.
Then there are the bizarre moments. Like riding through run-down farmland on a potholed road, and seeing a Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG parked on the side of the road (think gull-wing door and a price tag well into the 6 digits). Or coming across a massive three story building in the shape of a ship, built a good 50km away from the sea and surrounded by muddy farmland.
And ever present through it all, lurking just around the corner, were the not so good elements. The thick scent of petroleum and the oily residue on everything in Fier. The shocking examples of civil planning failures, none more so prevalent than the destroyed beach in Vlore. The all too persistent stories and examples of Government corruption and incompetency, and the hints we are starting to get about the poor state of gender equality in the country. And of course who could forget the bone-shakingly bad roads.
The experience has left us somewhat confused about how we feel about Albania. We’ve still got nearly 2 weeks left to explore, and are hoping that the good manages to outweigh the bad.
4ks an hour 