We left the shitty, muddy construction site that is currently the Vlorës beach (hopefully for the sake of the residents and hotel owners the council gets its act together and actually finishes the works soon), for the Llogora pass and the Albanian Riveria.
After the flat farmland we’d been passing through we were excited about some mountain landscapes again. It didn’t take long for the scenery to improve and after an hour or so we’d left the city and traffic behind, and the snow capped peaks around the pass came into view.
The road soon became impossibly steep, and at times we had to stand up in the pedals to manage even 4 kms an hour! It was hard work, but the scenery more than made up for it. We passed through mountain villages with old hunched women selling herbs, honeys and other unidentifiable products, then as we got even higher, thick forest with old and twisted pine trees that looked like it still harbours wolves and bear.
We eventually reached the small town of Llagora at around 900 metres above sea level, where we hoped we could find a camp for the night. We stopped in at the Freskia, a small eatery with a wood fire and a terrace. We asked the very kind owner, Viktor, if we could camp out the back, and he showed us the nicest grassed spot we could possibly have hoped for. A raki and a meal around the fire ended a great day.
We shook the ice off the tent in the morning, and went inside the restaurant to say thanks and goodbye to Viktor. A coffee, toast and two warm milks later we finally set off over the last 200 metres of the climb to the top of the pass. The views from the top were a little spoilt by some clouds, but it was a pretty spectacular spot nonetheless, complete with a communist era monument to complete the scene.
From here it was a 1100 metre descent down a road that somehow manages to cling to the side of the mountain. After what felt like an impossible number of switchbacks we were down in the Albanian Riveria, with towering mountains above, olive groves around us, and the ocean below. This was supposed to be the flash part of Albania, and while it may have more wealthy than other parts we’ve been through, it still has all the hallmarks of Albania: rubbish, stray dogs, donkeys, shepherds and half constructed buildings.
There’s some tacky over-development, but there’s also old towns and villages that are remarkably well preserved and very much still lived in. It’s hilly though, and our legs were blasted by the time we made it to Himarë.
We holed up in a cool hostel in Himarë, set amongst a citrus grove, complete with two dogs, a cat and a trove of chooks. Himarë itself was nothing special, but it had a nice beach, and, out of season, was tourist free. We had dinner in the local taverna, and was served by a rather plump and sweaty guy with possibly the worst breath I’ve ever smelt. Despite the lack of ambience in the place, the food was surprisingly good, yet again showing up how consistently good the food is here.
From Himarë it was two days to Gjirokaster. The Rivereria continued to dish up beautiful and mountainous coastline, and yet more gradients that had us standing in our pedals. By now we were very close to the Greek border, and we could see the island of Corfu offshore.
We wild camped in a rather scenic spot with both ocean and mountain views. Although it was off the main highway, our campsite was very visible from the road. Alli was feeling a little nervous, until a truck went past and the guys inside waved, yelled encouragement and gave us a big thumbs up! It may be a difficult country in many ways, but the people sure as hell are nice!
We arrived in Gjirokaster in the late afternoon, with the sun setting over snow fringed mountains on all sides. It’s an impressive sight, particularly with the very large castle looming over the town. Another spectacularly delicious meal in a run down looking diner, and we settled in to what was probably our best accommodation of the trip so far, in a restored stone guesthouse, with views all around and a very hot shower (and it even had a curtain!).
4ks an hour 