I’m writing this from a terrace outside our apartment in Hum, a tiny hill top town in Istria. It’s billed as the smallest town in the world, with a population of 17. It’s in the middle of a large forested area, is complete with twisted alleys, stone houses and iron gates and feels like it has hardly been touched by time.

We’ve arrived early and are now sampling the local grappa and eating truffle infused local cheese. The grappa is amazing… the walnut and mistletoe varieties are unbelievably good, and apparently are also good for you……not sure about their health properties but they are certainly making us feel good!

The cheese may also be one of the best things I’ve ever eaten.

The food and an easy day of cycling has already restored our faith in cycle touring, and we’re starting to think that Istria may be our favourite part of the trip so far.

Hum at night

Istria is a little reminiscent of Stanthorpe, only on a much larger scale, and a lot more exotic. There are rolling stony hills, olive trees and vineyards on the hillsides, with lush Mediterranean forests in between. The food is amazing, with hidden markets to be found, roadside vendors, hilltop villages with local produce and even some street food (hot fresh doughnuts covered in cinnamon and chocolate). There’s also an abundance of local wine (very dry whites) and of course grappa.

We’ve also seen more friendly people than we have in a long time. We’ve chatted with fellow cyclists, a young idealist who walks the area every year, as well as goat herders and produce dealers. They’ve all been lovely and it’s really helped to restore our love of travel.

It’s probably also helped by the fact that this is our fifth night in a row not in the tent, we smell a lot less than we have done for some time, and we’ve even seen the sun a few times!

PS this is how I got the photo of Hum….