Spent a luxuriously lazy 48 hours on the ferry from Iceland to Hirtshals in Denmark. We’d booked the ferry late so only had a choice between only a deluxe double bed cabin with a window, or a shared 6 bunk couchette in the bottom of the ship with no window. We were incredibly grateful that we decided to splurge when we booked, and get the deluxe cabin. After three and a half weeks in a tent, often in the pouring rain, we were more than ready for a little luxury. The room had a couch and it’s own bathroom, and it was our little slice of heaven for two days.

The journey across to Denmark was blissfully uneventful. The north sea was relatively calm, with minimal swell, and Matt managed to make the voyage vomit free (thanks to the doctor prescribed concoction of anti-nausea tablets, sleeping pills and beer).

We arrived in Hirtshals at lunchtime on Saturday, and set about finding some maps of cycle routes and camping spots. We’d been reading about these free camping shelters that were scattered all across Denmark and were keen to try them out. At the supermarket we bumped into Lea – a Swiss cyclist who we’d first met in Seyðisfjörður. We decided to cycle together for a while, and headed out along the National cycle route 1 towards Skagen.

The cycle route was terrific. Signposted, and either on quite back roads or through forest tracks, it was the easiest cycle we’ve had in quite a while. About 15km out of town we came across the most astonishing shelter. There was a fire pit, complete with a moveable cooking plate, chairs made from large logs, a device for chopping wood to make the fire, a compost toilet and a very large log shelter you could lie in if you didn’t or couldn’t put up your tent. ALL FOR FREE. Denmark, I think you and I are going to be great friends.

We sat down and cooked dinner, watching deer graze on grass at the end of the clearing and the sun set slowly over a large pine tree forest.

Tomorrow we cycle back into Hirtshals to meet Toby and Anthony, and head for Copenhagen.